An electrical contract is the agreement between a client and a licensed electrical contractor for one defined job: a panel upgrade, a kitchen rewire, an EV charger circuit, lighting for a new retail space. It pins down the scope, price, permits and inspections, and what happens when the walls are opened and the wiring isn’t what anyone expected. Our free electrical contract template is for homeowners, landlords and small businesses hiring an electrician, and for electricians who want a clean, fair form.

Hypothetically, think of a bakery owner in San Antonio who needs two new 240-volt circuits for a deck oven and a new subpanel, quoted at $6,800. A one-line quote that says “electrical for oven, $6,800” doesn’t say who pulls the permit, whether patching the drywall is included, or what happens if the service can’t handle the load. This template does.

Is this the right template for your job?

Use it when an electrical contractor is hired directly by the client for electrical work. If the electrician is working for a general contractor on a bigger project, the right document is a subcontractor agreement between the GC and the electrician. If electrical work is just one part of a remodel run by a general contractor, the client signs a construction contract with the GC. For small fixed-price calls like replacing a fixture, a signed quote is plenty.

What does the contract need to say about licensing?

It should name the license, the licensing agency and the license holder responsible for the job. Electrical licensing is set by states and sometimes cities. In Texas, for instance, the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation licenses electrical contractors and master electricians under the Texas Electrical Safety and Licensing Act. New York City separately requires a Home Improvement Contractor license for residential home improvement work costing more than $200. Rules elsewhere differ, so check your state’s licensing board, and look the contractor up before you sign.

The template has spaces for the license number, the master or supervising electrician, and proof of insurance.

Permits and inspections: who handles them?

The contract should say who applies for the permit, who pays the fees, and that the work isn’t complete until it passes inspection. Typically the licensed contractor pulls the electrical permit, but your building department sets the rules. Our template makes the contractor responsible for permits and inspections by default, includes the fees in the price or lists them separately (your choice), and ties final payment to passing final inspection.

New York City’s consumer agency, as one example, says contractors must tell homeowners in writing, before the contract is signed, which permits the work needs. That’s good practice everywhere.

What does “code compliant” mean in a contract?

It means the work must meet the electrical code adopted where the property is, plus any local amendments. Texas, for instance, adopts the National Electrical Code as its state electrical code through TDLR; other states and cities set their own code and edition. The template doesn’t name an edition because it depends on your location and the date. It just requires compliance with the code in force where the work is done.

Code compliance applies to the new work. It doesn’t mean the contractor has to bring the whole building up to current code, and the template says so. If an inspector requires extra corrections to existing wiring, those go through a change order.

How are change orders and concealed conditions handled?

Electrical work is full of surprises: a panel with no space, aluminum branch wiring, a junction box buried behind plaster. The template treats these as concealed conditions. The contractor stops that part of the work, tells the client, and prices the fix. Nothing extra gets done or billed without a signed change order, except where there’s an immediate safety hazard, in which case the contractor may make it safe and tell the client right away.

Fixed price or time and materials?

Both work. Fixed price suits a well-defined job. Time and materials suits troubleshooting and old buildings, and it’s fairer with a not-to-exceed amount the contractor can’t pass without the client’s written approval. The template supports either.

How do you fill in an electrical contract and get it signed?

  1. Write the scope circuit by circuit, with fixture and device counts.
  2. List exclusions: drywall patching, painting, trenching, utility-side work.
  3. Pick fixed price or time and materials, and set the payment schedule.
  4. Fill in license and insurance details.
  5. Sign before any permit application or material order.

If the contract is sold and signed at the client’s home, the FTC cooling-off rule may give the client three business days to cancel a sale of $25 or more, and the contractor must provide the written cancellation notice. The template includes a line for this.

E-signing works for electrical contracts; see are electronic signatures legally binding. Download the template, fill in the blanks, and send it for e-signature with any tool you like. (We’re building SignWren for this; join the waitlist.)

This template and guide are general information, not legal advice. For a specific job or dispute, talk to a lawyer licensed where the property is.