A roofing contract is the written agreement between a homeowner and a roofing contractor for a re-roof or major repair. It pins down the few things that cause nearly every roofing dispute: whether the old roof comes off, exactly which materials go on, what rotten decking costs, who stands behind the work, and how the yard looks when the crew leaves. This free roofing contractor agreement is written for residential jobs, in Word and PDF.

Roofing is also where storm chasers and door-knockers turn up after hail, so a few consumer protection rules matter more here than on most jobs. We cover those below.

Tear-off or overlay: what should the contract say?

The contract should state which one you’re getting and how many existing layers there are. A tear-off removes the old roofing down to the deck so the crew can inspect and replace damaged decking. An overlay installs new shingles over the existing layer. It costs less, but it hides the deck, adds weight, and may not be allowed by local code or by the shingle maker’s warranty terms, so check both before choosing it.

The template has a checkbox for each, a line for the number of existing layers, and a line confirming that removal and disposal are included in a tear-off price.

Which materials need to be named?

All of them, by brand and product line, not just “architectural shingles.” Hypothetically, a homeowner in Wichita signs for a $17,400 tear-off quoted as “30-year shingles, new underlayment.” The crew shows up with a cheaper synthetic felt and reuses the old pipe boots. Nothing in the contract said otherwise.

Our template has a materials table: shingle manufacturer, line and color; underlayment type; ice and water barrier (where and how far up); drip edge; flashing (new or reused, and where); pipe boots; ridge vents or other ventilation. The more specific this table is, the easier it is to hold both sides to it.

Why does decking get its own price?

Because no one can see it until the old roof is off. Rather than leave rotten decking as an open-ended extra, the template sets a price per sheet (for example, per 4 by 8 foot sheet of OSB or plywood) and an optional cap on how many sheets the roofer can replace without calling you first. It also asks the roofer to photograph the damaged sheets. That gives the homeowner a predictable number and gives the roofer a clean way to get paid for real work.

Manufacturer warranty or workmanship warranty: what’s the difference?

They’re two separate promises from two different companies. The manufacturer’s warranty covers defects in the materials and is governed by the manufacturer’s own terms, which may require registration or installation by a certified installer, so read the actual warranty document for your product. The workmanship warranty comes from the roofer and covers installation errors like bad flashing or improperly nailed shingles.

The template lists both, has the roofer register the manufacturer’s warranty if registration is required, and fills in the length of the workmanship warranty in years. A long manufacturer’s warranty paired with a one-year workmanship warranty is a weaker deal than it sounds, because only the roofer’s warranty covers installation mistakes.

Can the roofer handle my insurance claim?

Be careful here. After a storm, some roofers offer to “handle everything with your insurance.” State law may limit what a contractor can do. Florida’s statute on prohibited property insurance practices, section 489.147, bars contractors from offering homeowners things of value such as waiving the insurance deductible, and from interpreting policy provisions, advising on coverage, or adjusting a claim for the homeowner unless the contractor holds a public adjuster license. It also requires a good faith, itemized estimate for repairs under a property insurance claim.

Other states have their own rules. The template keeps it simple: the homeowner deals with the insurer, the contractor provides estimates and documentation the homeowner asks for, the contractor doesn’t waive or rebate the deductible, and the contract price isn’t tied to whatever the insurer pays.

Does the 3-day cooling-off rule apply to roofing sales?

It can. The FTC’s cooling-off rule covers sales made at the buyer’s home when the price is $25 or more (or $130 or more at temporary locations like a hotel or fairground), and it excludes, among others, sales that follow earlier negotiations at the seller’s permanent place of business. The buyer can cancel until midnight of the third business day after the sale. The seller must give the buyer a contract or receipt with the date, the seller’s name and address, and a cancellation notice, and must refund all payments within 10 business days of a cancellation.

There’s an exception for true emergencies, but only when the buyer started the contact, and it needs a separate personal statement in the buyer’s own handwriting, signed and dated, describing the emergency and waiving the right. A roofer shouldn’t be writing that for you. Some states add their own rules for home improvement contracts. Connecticut, for example, requires a written, signed contract and lets the customer cancel up to midnight of the third business day.

What about cleanup and nails?

Put it in writing. The template requires daily cleanup, protection of landscaping and siding with tarps, removal of all debris, and a magnetic sweep of the driveway, lawn and beds at the end of the job. It’s a small clause that tires and bare feet will appreciate.

How do you fill in a roofing contract and get it signed?

  1. Get the roofer’s license or registration number, insurance certificates and the manufacturer warranty terms.
  2. Fill in the materials table line by line.
  3. Set the decking price per sheet and the call-first cap.
  4. Agree the payment schedule. Connecticut’s consumer agency, for one, advises keeping the first deposit to a third of the cost.
  5. Sign, and keep the cancellation notice with your copy.

The ESIGN Act lets contracts like this be signed electronically. If the contract is signed at your home, the cancellation notice still has to be given. For extra work found mid-job beyond decking, use a change order form. For a bigger remodel, see our construction contract.

Download it, fill in the blanks, and send it for e-signature with any tool you like. (We’re building SignWren for exactly this; join the waitlist.)

This template and guide are general information, not legal advice. For a specific contract, claim or dispute, talk to a lawyer licensed where the house is.